Chelsea Collection Chardon skirt. (Or Miss Picky reviews a popular pattern!)

The Chardon Skirt (Deer and Doe patterns) imagehas been featured on so many sewing blogs, I finally cut one out at the end of last summer then didn’t get round to sewing it. With the spring sunshine over Easter I began thinking about summer clothes and realised I had a pretty cotton skirt all ready to sew. The fabric is a Rose and Hubble cotton lawn from the Chelsea collection. It is maybe a bit crisp for this pattern but we’ll see, the lovely crepe I’d planned to make this pattern in was too short, it was a remnant so I knew it might not be enough. I cut out the size 12 but altered the pleats to make the waist a 14. I am making the single fabric version without the contrast band or bow at the waist.The skirt is a little shorter than I’d have liked but as the hem is made using bias binding it will be ok. Pros: I  like the style, it makes me look as though I have a waist. I like the inverted pleats. I’m not sure about the pockets, they might work better in a heavier fabric skirt but I think the cotton lawn is too light to support them.  The pattern is printed on strong white paper, much easier to use than tissue paper. Cons: the order of construction annoyed me, why leave sewing in the zip until all the other seams are finished. It would be so much easier to sew in the zip before the side seams are sewn. I’m also not happy with the regular centre seam zip insertion, why not use an invisible zip or a lapped zip insertion? I will change the zip next time I make it and will probably unpick the zip this time and resew it. The length as I have already mentioned is a little short for me, next time I’d add a couple of inches. The belt loops are sewn onto the single layer of the skirt, I would sew them onto the skirt and waist facing together to give them better support. Finally a little niggle about the Deer and Doe website, some of the photos don’t do the garments justice and would put me off buying the patterns, case in point the Chataigne shorts (in fairness I wouldn’t be making shorts for myself anyway) but the shorts on the model are too tight  – just look at those wrinkles around the waist and high hips. They look really uncomfortable.  Most of the skirts and dresses seem a little short on the model too but maybe that is my age showing!

I’ve just got the hem to finish tomorrow and the waist facing to stitch down then I’ll take a photo of it.

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